2011年12月27日 星期二

節錄翻譯,關於Thomas Keller的烤雞


What does everyone still get wrong about roast chicken?

That's a good question. Probably the one thing I see that happens with roast chicken more often than not is that we don't dry out our birds well enough. It's hard to do at home - it's almost impossible for the home cook to have an environment inside the refrigerator where air is circulating so that the skin dries. You see in professional kitchens or butchers shops where the skin becomes a little dark - it's that dryness you need. Then comes the tempering part: when the chicken becomes room temperature, you roast it from there. Then you're really going to get a crispy skin and you're more likely to get even cooking. It's very difficult to get the breast done at the same time as the legs - you have to have that tolerance to say, "The great thing about roasted chicken is the whole thing."  If the breast is a little bit overcooked to the legs, you have to be OK with that.



from GQ.COM UK ( www.gq-magazine.co.Uk

One 2- to 3-pound farm-raised chicken
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons minced thyme (optional)

Unsalted butter
Dijon mustard

Preheat the oven to 450°F. Rinse the chicken, then dry it very well with paper towels, inside and out. The less it steams, the drier the heat, the better.

Salt and pepper the cavity, then truss the bird. Trussing is not difficult, and if you roast chicken often, it's a good technique to feel comfortable with. When you truss a bird, the wings and legs stay close to the body; the ends of the drumsticks cover the top of the breast and keep it from drying out. Trussing helps the chicken to cook evenly, and it also makes for a more beautiful roasted bird.

Now, salt the chicken—I like to rain the salt over the bird so that it has a nice uniform coating that will result in a crisp, salty, flavorful skin (about 1 tablespoon). When it's cooked, you should still be able to make out the salt baked onto the crisp skin. Season to taste with pepper.

Place the chicken in a sauté pan or roasting pan and, when the oven is up to temperature, put the chicken in the oven. I leave it alone—I don't baste it, I don't add butter; you can if you wish, but I feel this creates steam, which I don't want. Roast it until it's done, 50 to 60 minutes. Remove it from the oven and add the thyme, if using, to the pan. Baste the chicken with the juices and thyme and let it rest for 15 minutes on a cutting board.

Remove the twine. Separate the middle wing joint and eat that immediately. Remove the legs and thighs. I like to take off the backbone and eat one of the oysters, the two succulent morsels of meat embedded here, and give the other to the person I'm cooking with. But I take the chicken butt for myself. I could never understand why my brothers always fought over that triangular tip—until one day I got the crispy, juicy fat myself. These are the cook's rewards. Cut the breast down the middle and serve it on the bone, with one wing joint still attached to each. The preparation is not meant to be superelegant. Slather the meat with fresh butter. Serve with mustard on the side and, if you wish, a simple green salad. You'll start using a knife and fork, but finish with your fingers, because it's so good.








from Bouchon by Thomas Keller


對於烤雞,文字描述仍有太多想像空間,下面連結讓我們得以藉由Anthony Bourdain的特別節目,由Thomas Keller在廚房裡親自示範,怎麼做烤雞: